Rough Cutting And Matching

I started from four sheets of plywood.

sheet goods

Since the 34” sheets were on top, I first ripped them into strips approximately 12” wide (all my sides, tops, bottoms, and shelves are narrower). I set them out and laid out the individual parts, aiming to show the most pleasing grain and put the less appealing portions in places you won’t really see, such as the bottom of the cases (they will be about six feet off the ground).

strips for case pices

To rip rough sections for backs from the 12” material, I used my zero clearance jig and my skill saw.

ripping a panel across using a zero clearance jig

Next I needed to cut rough parts from the eight foot long strips of plywood with crosscuts. Unfortunately, some recent maintenance on my table saw moved the arbor slightly to the left. My crosscut sled still works, but the slot is now too wide to use the right edge of the slot as a guide for making a cut.

over-wide crosscut sled slot

Having a zero clearance edge is a huge time saver when making cuts, so I needed to fix this. I had already decided to route out a recess to the right of the slot for a piece of 14” plywood about 1” wide. This will allow me to make a fresh zero clearance edge any time I need to without rebuilding my sled. It also will allow me to have a zero clearance insert for regular blades (18” wide kerf) and thin kerf blades (332” kerf).

Adapting The Crosscut Sled

Starting from the sled as it was, I measured to route out material from the right side of the slot. Routing left a lot of dust but removed most of the material.

over-wide crosscut sled slot

I was left with material at the back and front (back shown).

recess mostly routed

I chiseled this out by hand.

removing the remainder by hand

After drilling and installing a strip of 14” plywood with some small screws, I was able to run it through the saw and cut a fresh, accurate zero clearance edge.

new zero clearance slot

Cutting Parts to Final Size

With my crosscut sled repaired and a simple hook to support the long boards, I was ready to cut rough case parts.

ready to rip parts

support hook in place

After roughing out the case parts, I ripped them to final width and final length. carefully truing up the edges as I went, to get as straight and true an edge as possible. This meant making more than one pass to get the edge progressively more straight.

Once all the parts were cut to size, I needed to drill holes for the shelf pins in the sides of all five cases.

drilling shelf pin holes

I had hoped to get all the parts sanded this weekend, but it’s a fair bit of work to turn four sheets of plywood into sized parts. With family commitments, chores, and some home maintenance, I was happy to get the parts ready for sanding.

drilling shelf pin holes